The Diamond Blog

How to Accurately Assess the True Beauty of Fancy-Shaped Diamonds

Written by Ligal Dervish | Aug 5, 2024 1:52:27 PM

Round brilliant diamonds are a timeless classic; there is no disputing that.

However, in recent years, there has been a growing shift in popularity for fancy shapes, such as pear, oval, marquise, emerald, and princess cuts.

At GCAL by Sarine, over 50% of diamonds submitted to our labs since 2020 have been fancy shapes.

Fancy diamonds have incredible appeal because they blend traditional beauty with a unique vibe. The emerald cut, for example, has an elegant Art Deco character that is almost regal. The pear and marquise shape have an elongated look that gives a slightly more modern twist.

With their unusual and stylish cuts, fancy diamonds captivate consumers but also present a serious challenge for accurate cut grading. 


The “Wild West” of Diamond Grading

Fancy cut diamonds are inherently more complex than round diamonds. Each shape has its own unique proportions, faceting patterns, and visual characteristics. This variety makes it difficult to determine accurate cut grades. Unlike round diamonds, which have well-defined standards for cut quality, fancy shapes have numerous variables that affect light performance and must be considered to determine their true visual appeal and value.

For example, variations in length-to-width ratios and faceting styles each affect the diamond’s brilliance, fire, and scintillation, and the impact varies depending on the shape. Traditionally, the grading of fancy shapes has focused on basic outlines and faceting patterns, but this approach falls short of capturing the diamond’s true quality. The lack of a standardized cut grade for fancy diamonds has left retailers and consumers with limited information, making it challenging to compare and evaluate fancy shape diamonds effectively.

Cut grading of fancy shaped diamonds is basically the “wild west” of the industry, a vast uncharted territory – until now.

Introducing 8X Cut Grade, developed by GCAL by Sarine: a revolutionary method that accurately assesses and presents the true quality and beauty of fancy cut diamonds.

 

The Journey to 8X Cut Grading

Recognizing the need for a more precise grading method for fancy shapes, GCAL created the 8X Cut Grade, providing a standardized system to identify the highest-quality cuts for a range of fancy diamonds. It launched in 2022 with oval and princess shapes. Later, marquise and pear shaped cut grades were introduced to the market.

Only diamonds that meet the stringent 8X criteria received the exclusive GCAL certification.

 

What is the 8X Cut Grade by GCAL?

The 8X Cut Grade evaluates fancy-shaped diamonds based on eight strict parameters, each of which must achieve an ‘Excellent’ grade for the diamond to qualify as 8X. These parameters are:

  1. Polish: Assess the diamond’s surface for imperfections and nicks.
  2. External Symmetry: Evaluates foundational attributes, such as table and culet alignment, shape outline, and facet pointing.
  3. Proportions: Delineates narrow proportion ranges specific to each shape that yields the best possible light performance.
  4. Optical Brilliance: Measures the overall return of white light to the viewer to the 1000th decimal place.
  5. Optical Fire: Analyzes the quantity and size of color light return when the diamond is tilted and moved, based on video imaging composed of 200 processed frames.
  6. Scintillation: Assesses the flashes of light or sparkle when light is reflected from a diamond. The analysis is based on simulation videos of light return from a single beam as the diamond is tipped and tilted.
  7. Optical Symmetry: Evaluates the precision and evenness of facet shapes and alignment, based on an actual photo of the diamond taken with a 5-angle reflector to achieve richly colored images.
  8. Shape Aesthetics: This parameter considers the various deviations that may affect the light performance of the specific fancy shape. For example, in oval diamonds, undesirable features that would prevent the diamond from receiving an Excellent grade for Shape Aesthetics include bow ties (dark areas in the center of the diamond) and irregular shape outlines. The Shape Aesthetic criteria vary according to fancy shape.


 

8X methodology: How it was devised

The research methodology behind 8X cut grading involved analyzing the optical light performance of over one million diamonds in GCAL’s lab. By studying the brilliance, scintillation, and fire of each diamond, as well as their proportions and symmetry, the GCAL team identified the highest-performing diamonds for each fancy shape, and the specific angles and proportions they had in common. This allowed GCAL to establish the range of requirements for the 8X cut grade, ensuring that each certified diamond exhibits optimal light performance and visual appeal.

 

The 8X Report: Where it All Comes Together

Every 8X certified fancy diamond comes with a report that provides in-depth detail about its features and light performance for each parameter. The report includes high-resolution images and video that support the findings of the 8X analysis, providing a rich visual experience and peace of mind about the diamond’s beauty and quality.

GCAL 8X certificates include several added-value features that enhance the buying experience for fancy cuts:

  • Gemprint: A unique optical fingerprint image of the diamond, providing unmatched security and identification.
  • 360-degree video: High-quality video showcasing the fancy diamond from all angles.
  • Fire video: Demonstrates the diamond’s light performance in motion.
  • Photomicrographs: Actual photos of the diamond’s crown and pavilion – no generic images.
  • Proportion diagram: To-scale diagram of the diamond’s proportions.
  • Laser inscription: Includes the 8X logo and certification number, ensuring authenticity.

 

 

How to Boost Your Fancy Cut Sales

Imagine this common scenario: A customer just got engaged and asks their local jeweler to source a 2-carat pear-shaped diamond with VS clarity. A search for diamonds that fit these requirements can yield thousands of results. Each diamond typically has its own accompanying images, taken with different camera equipment and varying light settings, making it impossible to discern the subtle differences and understand which has the best cut and the most beautiful appearance.

Retailers often struggle to guide customers in selecting fancy shaped diamonds, due to the lack of accurate, standardized and detailed cut quality information. Without 8X, there are too many potential options, each with varying quality and uncertain light performance. With 8X cut grading, the process is simplified and clear, providing a scientifically-backed and verified assessment of each fancy diamond’s true light performance, beauty, and quality.

GCAL’s 8X method ensures that only diamonds meeting the highest standards of brilliance, fire, scintillation, symmetry, and proportions are certified, making it easier for both retailers and customers to identify the ideal fancy diamond for their taste and budget.

 

The Advantages of 8X

The 8X cut grade offers numerous advantages for diamond retailers in a competitive and tricky arena:

  • Market differentiation: 8X certification certifies the quality and beauty of fancy-shaped diamonds, setting them apart from the competition and enhancing their marketability.
  • Easier to sell: Selling a high-quality product is so much easier. 8X guarantees grading accuracy and superior cut quality, making the sales process for fancy diamonds smoother.
  • Empowers sales teams: The 8X certification report provides a visual and scientific demonstration of a fancy diamond’s true quality, aiding in customer education and decision-making.
  • For natural and lab-grown diamonds: With the increased demand for lab-grown diamonds, 8X certification addresses the growing popularity of fancy shapes in both markets.

 

The Future of Fancy Cut Grading is 8X

The 8X cut grading system is a significant advancement in the diamond industry, providing an accurate assessment of fancy cuts for the first time. Backed by advanced technology and extensive research on one million fancy diamonds, GCAL by Sarine has set a new standard for cut quality, helping retailers and consumers alike appreciate the true beauty and value of fancy-shaped diamonds.

 Curious to learn more about 8X Cut Grade, how it works, and what it can do for your business? Click below and watch GCAL by Sarine's exclusive webinar recording ⬇️