There are some industry trips that leave you with a few observations. And then there are trips that leave you thinking differently about an entire market. My recent visit to India was one of the latter.
From spending time with the team at the GCAL by Sarine lab in Surat to meeting retailers, manufacturers and retailers at IIJS Bharat Premiere 2026 in Mumbai, I came back to NY with one clear impression: India is entering a new chapter for jewelry and diamonds. It was tangible. Buyers were everywhere. Retailers were talking about expansion. Technology and manufacturing capabilities have advanced dramatically. And, perhaps most importantly, the industry players are thinking much more strategically about how to differentiate themselves in an increasingly competitive market.
IIJS Bharat Premiere 2026 was, without a doubt, the busiest show I have ever attended. My experience was even more meaningful because I first attended IIJS 20 years ago. Coming back after two decades and seeing how dramatically the Indian jewelry industry has evolved was remarkable. The growth in technology, innovation, manufacturing expertise and, above all, ambition was impossible to miss.
What I saw at IIJS 2026 was not simply a bigger show. India is no longer simply a major manufacturing center. It is increasingly a market where ambitious retailers are building sophisticated brands and thinking seriously about how to capture the next generation of consumers. I spoke with retailers who have only a handful of stores today but are planning to reach 100 stores within the next year. That tells you something.
One of the most interesting differences I see between India and the US is the way retailers are approaching lab-grown diamonds. India has traditionally been a natural diamond hub. Yet I heard from many companies that are now opening dedicated lab-grown retail operations.
That is very different from the typical US model, where natural and lab-grown diamonds are often presented alongside one another in the same retail environment. In India, many companies, particularly those that already have an established natural diamond business, are creating separate LGD only stores.
You can walk into one store focused on natural diamonds and another focused entirely on LGD. That tells me the market is not simply adding another product category. Retailers are experimenting with different business models, price points and consumer propositions. And that creates an interesting question about the future.
At the price points common in India, LGD diamonds can give consumers the opportunity to own a much larger stone for the same budget. Could that eventually create an aspirational pathway toward natural diamonds? It is too early to know how that dynamic will develop, but it is certainly something worth watching.
Whether I was speaking with a retailer operating three stores or a nationally recognized brand, one theme kept coming up: price pressure. It is a challenge in both India and the US. But there is an important distinction between competing on price and creating a reason for consumers to choose one product over another. Everything comes back to differentiation. With meaningful differentiation, retailers have something they can explain, demonstrate and build a premium around
During my presentation at IIJSPremier Innov8 seminar, I made a point that is increasingly relevant in today’s diamond market: traditional cut grades have, in many cases, become participation trophies. When almost everyone receives an “Excellent,” the highest grade becomes the starting point rather than a meaningful distinction. GCAL 8X® was intentionally built to be different. Recognizing approximately the top 1-2% of diamonds, it honors exceptional craftsmanship, precision and manufacturing. Achieving that standard requires intentional planning and manufacturing. That message clearly resonated with retailers. GCAL 8X gives them a product they can lean into: a premium cut proposition, a strong visual sales story and a genuine opportunity to turn precision into profit.
The questions that followed my presentation were equally telling. Retailers wanted to know where they could source 8X diamonds, how many conventionally graded Excellent diamonds might qualify, whether provenance and traceability could be included, and how consumers respond to GCAL 8X.
These weren’t simply questions about a grading standard. They were questions about how to bring it into their businesses and sell it - a clear sign that the conversation was moving from “What is it?” to “How can I use it?”
My visit to the GCAL by Sarine laboratory in Surat reinforced another important point: to properly support the Indian market, we need to be part of the local supply chain. Diamonds can be cut and certified in India, jewelry manufactured in India, and finished jewelry certified locally before reaching consumers in US, India or other regions. This ability to support the complete supply chain is critical to building a sustainable business in the current market state.
Retailers are expanding, manufacturers are embracing technology, companies are experimenting with new retail models, and the industry is looking for ways to create value in a market where price pressure remains intense.
The opportunity is not simply about selling more diamonds. It is about answering a more important question: How do we give consumers a reason to choose one diamond over another?
Exceptional craftsmanship, measurable performance, provenance, traceability and a compelling retail story can help move the conversation beyond price.
India has the expertise, entrepreneurial energy and retail ambition to make that happen at scale. I came back to New York convinced that India represents a significant opportunity for GCAL by Sarine. The market is moving fast, and we are committed to playing an active role in creating value and supporting its continued growth.
I'm glad to share the recording with those who couldn’t attend IIJS session.
🎥 Watch here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DHalNZM5Fk
I’m already planning my next visit to India. Until then, check with the team to see how we can help move your business forward.
For any questions and submissions📩:
USA: sales@gcalusa.com India: labsales@sarinindia.com
Yours,
Angelo